FASHION WEEK MAKEUP TRENDS

Mar 10, 2011 Posted by Corrie Shenigo

Earlier in the week we took a look at the latest and greatest in hair trends that sprung from the catwalks of the big three Fashion Weeks: New York, Milan, and the pièce de résistance Paris. But what’s a Boho single side braid, a beautifully deconstructed up-do, or a retro-licious 70’s-inspired long bob without the right makeup trends to accompany it? You can’t coif the locks into runway-ready submission and rock face-shellac trends from the Joan Crawford collection – it’s just not right.

So, in the spirit of… um… right (Sheesh… and they call me a professional?) we’re at the starting gate to take a look at Fashion Week makeup trends. Hurrah!

And just what did runway-watchers spy painted on the fresh faces of the catwalk?

KEEP IT PRETTY RETRO.

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Yep… spider lashes, dusted shadows and picture perfect skin have struck again. (And hey, we can’t really argue with the ridiculously pretty Valentino ponytail here either!)

According to the most “influential makeup artist in the world” Pat McGrath (Hey folks, Vogue said it. Do not question Anna!), “She’s a perfect-skinned beauty.” Valentino creative directors, Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pier Paolo Piccioli “wanted a cool girl—as if she’d done her makeup herself.”

And since most of us apply our makeup ourselves on a daily basis – we’re already halfway there. But how does one achieve said “perfect-skinned beauty”? I don’t know about your cosmetics case, but Ms. McGrath used a light base of Covergirl’s NaturalLuxe foundation, a dusting of gray/brown “smoke” to the lids, highlighted and glossed nude lips, and “perfected top and bottom lashes” (eek! Someone call Latisse!) to complete the 60’s homage. Spider lashes strike again!

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Valentino wasn’t alone in this 60’s spider lash homage either. Nope this arachnid-inspired trend showed up at Alberta Ferretti, Lanvin, and take a peek at the ‘chicer side of hippie” girl that makeup artist Charlotte Tilbury created for Chloé. “It’s a hybrid between Anita Pallenberg and Charlotte Rampling.”

And lest your knowledge of 60’s fashion icons is not as astute as Ms. Tilburys, she breaks the look down for us. Think a “lived-in” brown eye (MAC Cream Color Base in Dark Brown) smudged across the lids and also under the lower lash line (MAC Eye Pencil in Teddy), nude lips and a whole crap-load of strategically-placed mascara (MAC Fibre Rich Lash Mascara in Black) for that “cloggy” effect. And while I question Tilbury’s word choice (Cloggy? Ew.) the result is undeniable. Spider lashes = Spring trend. (Apparently freckles too, as she penciled those in on the unfortunates who dared to catwalk without them.)

METALLIC MAYHEM.

Always in trend-watchers eyeline, Chanel’s go-to face painter, Peter Phillips notoriously creates products to fill Mr. Lagerfeld’s creative vision. And just what was that vision? (Again, we can’t argue with the side bun!)

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“Karl said he wanted silver,” and so Philips obliged with a little Chanel-something called ‘Épatant’, a gunmetal shade from his new-for-autumn Illusion d’Ombre cream eye shadow collection (sounds fancy, huh?). He then mixed in two of the range’s accompanying shades (white and black) and (Kablammm!) Karl got his wish. Couture-wise, metallics have been huge for sometime now, so it’s only natural that they would slide up to your face, right?

Accompanied by a pink-nude lip (leave the gloss for the girlish) and the latest metallic nail polish to set cosmetics counters on fire, Chanel’s ‘Graphite’ Nail Lacquer – and voila! Runway ready!

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On the opposite end of the metallic spectrum, Sarah Burton for Alexander McQueen paired a full helmet of silver barrettes with an iridescent golden metallic shadow (Chanel Le Crayon Yeux in Khaki Platine) on the eyes, and plenty of shimmering highlights on the cheeks, nose and pout. All set against alabaster skin (Chanel Pro-Lumiere Foundation in #10) the look was something like a futuristic robotic-ice-queen. (Sci-fi geeks everywhere are swooning.) A two-toned metallic nail design by Minx. (Cooler than Lee Press-on Nails for some reason.) inspired by a photo of an ice cave finished off the look. Love the metallic makeup, but I draw the line on the Goody overload. I’m sorry.

GIRLS WILL BE BOYS, WILL BE BOYS WITH BIG BROWS.

Oh, brother. No really, look at your brother. Now grow out those ultra-manicured brows and imagine painting your face to emulate his boyish charms, ‘cause girls as boys is hot!

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The runways have been rife with the masculine/feminine beauty trend for some time now and it’s not due entirely to the unisex-runway appeal of transgendered model Lea T (But let’s give that gal some massive props!). No, playing with the androgeny-trend doesn’t mean starving yourself into the visage of a 14 year-old boy anymore, it simply means natural makeup hues, porcelain skin and big, boyish brows. (Means less time plucking, so I’m cool with that.)

Makeup artist Val Garland called it how she created it: “It’s a real innocent boy,” she deadpanned at Giambattista Valli's backstage of the “neat” faces. And, no, you can’t get there without a little work. Garland applied a coat of MAC Strobe Liquid over correcting pigments to perfect the skin, and then applied MAC Cream Colour Base in Shell over the lids. Using MAC Eye Pencil in Coffee (for dark-haired models) or MAC Pro Chromographic Pencil in WW15 (for blondies), she lined the inner rim of the lower lashes creating the slightest of definition, and kept the lips looking fresh and clean with either MAC Lipstick in Peachstock (brunettes) or MAC Pro Longwear Lipcreme in Overtime (blondies).

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The Kenzo runway was another example of boy/girl bushy-brows, with makeup artist Tom Pecheux taking inspiration from two famously browed (both high and low, thank you very much) and defiant muses: Frida Kahlo and Georgia O’Keeffe.

“Not so much their work, but the kind of women they are—powerful with a strong mind but at the same time sophisticated,” Pecheux explained, making a point to disregard the obvious references. “We’re not doing unibrows.” he quipped. Oh, I see.

So no unibrow, but do let your glorious over-the-eye fringe fly fierce and fluffy and fabulous. Noted.

And hey, just for good measure… let’s end this little makeup trend tutorial on a do-not-try-at-home tip:

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Seriously? Seriously.


Corrie Shenigo 'til Next Time!