DECIPHERING SUNSCREEN LABELS: Super-hero Sunscreens
May 10, 2011 Posted by Corrie Shenigo

Super-heroes, Super-models, Super-duper (although I’m not quite sure what a duper is), simply sticking the ‘S-word’ in front of something that is already pretty great, somehow makes it even better. So what of this Super-sunscreen carrot that I’ve endlessly dangled in front of you?
I know. I know. I’ve spent the majority of our Sunscreen Series word count scaring the bejesus out of you with fear mongering three-letter words like UVB, UVA and SPF – and for that I’m completely unapologetic. After all, knowledge is power right? But, lest you think that you’re completely doomed to suffer the consequences of sun exposure (at least those pesky UVA rays), today we’re going to talk about what you can do to protect yourself, and how new advances in the sunscreen market can help.
Despite the fact that 50 seems to be the magical number in terms of actual protection against the sun’s UVB rays, it seems the FDA is finally through with threatening sunscreen manufacturers with an SPF 50 protection cap on labeling. So if slathering on a SPF 110 makes you feel better, despite it not being much different than a 50, you're absolutely free to do so. The FDA has instead spent their time actually completing the mythical sun-protection monograph (A work in progress since 1978 – no really guys, that’s okay. Take your time. The sun will wait.), and will, if we're to believe the rumors, unveil all 290+ pages of it in 2012. The monograph will address criteria for measuring and labeling UVA protection, the nitty-gritty of SPF numbers, the debate over the term waterproof (which most derms say is impossible) vs. water-resistant, as well as the debate over sunblock vs. sunscreen.
Addendum: Sunblock vs. sunscreen? What’s the fuss? One executive at the Skin Cancer Foundation was quoted in the aforementioned Vogue “Screen Stars” article as saying “nothing can truly, 100 percent ‘block’ the sun, except maybe denim.” So again, it’s the all-important semantics in marketing debate. Denim, you say?

Before you go doubling up on the denim (Never do this – ever. Hipsters take note.), let’s return to the magical sunscreen ingredient we discussed when we opened this can of sun-protection worms: avobenzone.
Avobenzone is a chemical sunscreen that absorbs the UVA rays once they hit the skin and San Francisco dermatologist and co-founder of Rodan + Fields skin care, Katie Rodan, M.D. can't say enough about it. Rodan calls this ingredient a “phenomenal UV blocking agent” and the gold standard in terms of what should be a primary ingredient on any good sunscreen label. The problem, as we mentioned earlier, is that unless it’s been stabilized, avobenzone degrades really quickly in the presence of sunlight, “it’s only effective for an hour, maybe two hours max.” Which means constantly re-applying... or forgetting to re-apply.
Before you park yourself at frustration station, this is where the ‘S-word’ comes in, as in: Super-power. It seems that many top cosmetic companies have heard your pleas for avobenzone stability and have successfully figures out how to prevent the blocking agent from breaking down so darned quickly. Lancome, La Roche-Posay, Neutrogena and Aveeno (name dropper) have all unleashed sunscreens with stabilized avobenzone – which means less need for re-application. Other companies (Rodan + Fields, Avon) are getting even more creative with additional protection too, using antioxidant sources to stimulate the skins natural enzymes and protect against free radicals.

And let’s not forget about the amazing mineral powder foundations on the market now which, conveniently are made of actual physical sun blockers (um… don’t you mean, sun-screens… ahem.) zinc oxide and titanium dioxide, providing the double-whammy re-application without having to re-apply (you’re make-up, that is.) Now that really is super? No?